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# Birkenstock Sandals, Explained: Arizona, Boston, Gizeh and Which to Buy
- URL: https://www.unknowndivide.com/birkenstock-models-explained/
- Published: 2026-05-26T18:41:00.000Z
- Updated: 2026-10-07T05:57:36.000Z
- Description: Mocked, adored and copied for six decades, the Birkenstock has barely changed. How the cork footbed works, what separates the Arizona, Boston, Gizeh and Madrid, how to choose a width and material, and how to buy the real thing.
- Author: unknowndivide staff
- Tags: Style

Few shoes have been mocked and adored in equal measure for as long as the Birkenstock. The cork-soled sandal was dismissed as orthopedic footwear in the 1960s, adopted by hippies in the 1970s, discovered by fashion designers in the 1980s and turned into a status object in the 2020s, when the Boston clog became one of the most wanted shoes around. Through all of it, the basic idea has barely changed.

That idea is the footbed, and understanding it makes the rest of the range easy. Here is where Birkenstock comes from, what the main models are, and how to pick the right one.

*Unknowndivide may earn a commission from purchases made through links in this guide.*

## A shoemaking family since 1774

Birkenstock dates its shoemaking tradition to 1774, the first documented mention of Johannes Birkenstock, a shoemaker in a village in central Germany. The modern story starts with Konrad Birkenstock, who opened a workshop in Frankfurt in 1896\. According to the [Birkenstock Group](https://www.birkenstock-group.com/de/en/about-us/history/?ref=unknowndivide.com), he created a fully three-dimensional shoe last in 1897, one of the first to distinguish between the left and right foot and to shape the sole of the foot, and in 1902 he developed a flexible, contoured insole to go with it. He registered the "footbed" trademark in 1925.

For decades the family sold insoles rather than complete shoes. That changed with Karl Birkenstock, who joined the company in 1954\. In 1963 he created the original Birkenstock footbed sandal, the model now sold as the Madrid, and presented it at the Düsseldorf shoe fair. Shoe retailers wanted nothing to do with it. Karl sold it to doctors instead, and the sandal spread slowly from medical and professional settings to subcultures and, eventually, everywhere.

## The footbed, explained

The Birkenstock footbed is shaped like a footprint. It has a deep heel cup, raised arch support and a raised toe bar that encourages your toes to grip as you walk. In the original footbed, a base layer of jute stabilizes the sole, a core of cork and natural latex provides flexible, shock-absorbing support, a second jute layer adds durability, and a suede lining absorbs moisture. Over time the cork molds to your foot, which is why a worn-in pair feels so different from a new one.

Two variations matter when you buy. The **soft footbed** adds a layer of foam under the suede lining for extra cushioning, which shortens the break-in period. And most models come in two widths, **regular** and **narrow**, so check the width as well as the size. Birkenstock uses European sizing, and its site has a size guide.

## Arizona: the best-seller

Karl Birkenstock followed the Madrid with the Zürich in 1964 and the Roma in 1965, and by 1973 he had designed the Arizona: an open sandal with two wide straps and buckles across the top of the foot. It became Birkenstock's best-known model and is still the one most people picture when they hear the name. It works with shorts, with socks and, for the brave, with tailoring. If you are buying your first pair, the [Birkenstock Arizona Soft Footbed](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFCDANQ?tag=unknowndivi02-20&ref=unknowndivide.com) is the easiest place to start, since the extra cushioning makes the first few weeks more comfortable.

## Boston: the clog that went viral

The Boston arrived in 1976 as Birkenstock's first clog: a closed toe, a single strap and the same footbed underneath. For decades it was a niche shoe for gardeners, chefs and people who wanted a sandal they could wear in autumn. Then it became a fashion phenomenon, especially in taupe suede, and sold out again and again. Suede is soft and casual. Oiled leather develops a patina and handles weather better. The [Birkenstock Boston in oiled leather](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S92S3G?tag=unknowndivi02-20&ref=unknowndivide.com) is the more durable choice if you plan to wear it year-round. It also makes the most sense of any Birkenstock with socks, which is how many people wear it.

## Gizeh: the thong sandal

The Gizeh, introduced in 1983, adds a toe post and a T-shaped strap to the footbed, giving you a sandal with the airy feel of a flip-flop and the support of a Birkenstock. It is the lightest-looking model in the core range and the one most associated with summer. The [Birkenstock Gizeh](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KC5YC2?tag=unknowndivi02-20&ref=unknowndivide.com) comes in many finishes, from smooth leather to nubuck and the synthetic Birko-Flor. The toe post takes a little getting used to, so if you have never worn thong sandals, try a pair on first.

## Zürich, Madrid and the rest

The rest of the range builds on the same few shapes. The **Madrid** is the original single-strap slide from 1963, minimal and almost architectural. The **Zürich**, from 1964, is a broader, more enclosed sandal that sits somewhere between the Arizona and a clog. The **Milano** adds a back strap to an Arizona-style sandal so it stays put when you walk further. And the **London** and other closed shoes bring the footbed into full shoes. Birkenstock also collaborates with fashion houses and designers, and those editions often sell out quickly.

## Materials and care

Birkenstock uses several uppers. **Birko-Flor** is its own synthetic material, easy to clean and the most affordable. **Smooth leather** and **oiled leather** last longest and age well. **Suede** and **nubuck** are soft and look great but need protection from water and stains. Most Birkenstocks can be resoled by a good cobbler, so a pair you love can last for years. Keep the cork from drying out by applying cork sealer when the edges start to look dull, and avoid leaving the sandals in direct heat.

## How to buy the real thing

Birkenstock's popularity has brought a wave of copies with similar straps and cork-colored soles. The giveaway is usually the footbed: copies are often flatter, harder and missing the deep heel cup and toe bar. Genuine pairs have the Birkenstock name and logo embossed on the footbed and usually on the buckles, and the safest route is to buy from [Birkenstock](https://www.birkenstock.com/us/?ref=unknowndivide.com) or an authorized retailer. In 2024, the brand celebrated 250 years of shoemaking tradition, which tells you something about how long its designs tend to last.

If you like footwear built to be worn for years, see our guide to [heritage boots worth buying](https://www.unknowndivide.com/best-heritage-boots-worth-buying/), the story of the [Dr. Martens 1460](https://www.unknowndivide.com/dr-martens-the-1460/), and our take on another divisive clog, the [Crocs Roy](https://www.unknowndivide.com/crocs-roy/). And for the denim to wear with them, start with our [raw denim beginner's guide](https://www.unknowndivide.com/raw-denim-beginners-guide/).

More in our [Sneakers & Style hub](https://www.unknowndivide.com/sneakers-and-style/).