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# Knife Grinds Explained: Scandi, Flat, Hollow and Convex
- URL: https://www.unknowndivide.com/knife-grinds-explained-scandi-flat-hollow-convex/
- Published: 2023-08-07T15:00:00.000Z
- Updated: 2026-11-03T12:25:15.000Z
- Description: The grind is the shape of a blade as it narrows to the edge, and it decides how a knife cuts, how tough the edge is and how easy it is to sharpen. Here is how Scandi, flat, hollow, convex and serrated grinds compare, with real edge angles.
- Author: unknowndivide staff
- Tags: Gear

*Unknowndivide may earn a commission from purchases made through links in this post.*

Two knives can share the same steel, the same length and the same handle and still cut in completely different ways. The reason is the grind: the shape the blade takes as it narrows from the spine down to the edge. The grind decides how easily a knife slides through material, how tough its edge is and how simple it is to sharpen. This guide explains the main grinds in plain terms, with real edge angles from a knife maker that publishes them.

## What a grind is

Picture a blade in cross section, as if you sliced through it from spine to edge. A thick spine at the top tapers to a sharp edge at the bottom. The grind is the profile of that taper. A grind can start right at the spine and run all the way down, or it can start low on the blade and form a narrow bevel near the edge. It can be flat, curved inward or curved outward.

Two numbers matter most. The first is the edge angle, measured either per side or in total. A lower angle cuts more easily but is more delicate. A higher angle is tougher but needs more force. The second is the thickness behind the edge. As the Swedish maker Morakniv puts it on its [grinds and edge angles page](https://us.morakniv.com/blogs/knife-knowledge/grinds-and-edge-angles?ref=unknowndivide.com), no matter how precise the heat treatment is, a knife will never be better than its edge.

## Scandi grind

The Scandi grind is a single wide flat bevel that runs from partway up the blade straight down to the edge. Morakniv calls it its signature grind and finishes it with a small micro bevel at the very edge, which makes the edge less fragile and helps it hold up longer. According to the company, the total edge angle is 23 degrees (11.5 per side) on blades up to 2.5 millimeters thick and 27 degrees (13.5 per side) on thicker blades. The micro bevel itself is about 35 to 45 degrees in total and only 0.05 to 0.5 millimeters high.

The Scandi grind is popular for outdoor work, bushcraft and woodcarving because it bites into wood well and is easy to sharpen. The wide flat bevel acts as a built in guide: lay it flat on a stone and you are at the right angle. Knives that use it include the [Morakniv Garberg](https://www.unknowndivide.com/morakniv-garberg-full-tang-bushcraft-knife/) and the [Morakniv Companion](https://www.unknowndivide.com/morakniv-companion-outdoor-knife/).

Morakniv also points out that its micro bevel is not the same as the American style secondary bevel. The two have different characteristics and uses, so do not assume that any knife with a small extra bevel at the edge behaves like a Scandi.

## Scandi zero

A Scandi zero grind has the same flat profile but no micro bevel. The bevel runs all the way to the very edge. This makes for a sharper, more aggressive edge that is ideal for fine woodworking, but it is also more delicate and more demanding to maintain. Morakniv uses it on its dedicated carving knives, where maximum sharpness and precision matter more than toughness. Its angles follow the same pattern as the regular Scandi grind.

## Full flat grind

A full flat grind tapers evenly from the spine all the way down to the edge. There is no shoulder partway down the blade, so the knife has low friction and makes long, clean cuts. Morakniv lists total edge angles between 27 and 36 degrees for its full flat models, depending on the series, and recommends the grind for cooking, slicing and a balance of strength and cutting ability. For a look at how blade shapes differ in the kitchen, see our guide to [kitchen knife types](https://www.unknowndivide.com/kitchen-knife-types-explained/).

## Hollow grind

A hollow grind, sometimes called a concave grind, has blade sides that curve slightly inward. That removes metal behind the edge, producing a very thin and very sharp edge. The tradeoff, as Morakniv describes it, is a less robust construction. A hollow ground edge is excellent for slicing but is not the first choice for heavy chopping or prying.

## Convex grind

A convex grind is the opposite of a hollow grind. The blade sides curve gently outward as they approach the edge, leaving more metal behind it. That gives a strong, durable edge. Morakniv notes that the convex grind is common on axes, where it is sometimes called an axe grind, and on survival knives, and that it is popular among bushcrafters in North America.

There is also a hybrid that enthusiasts like. A scandivex grind blends a Scandi profile with a slight convex curve. Morakniv mentions that owners often regrind models like the Garberg this way for better feathersticking and lighter batoning.

## Serrated edges

A serrated edge has small regular teeth that cut efficiently through fibrous or tough materials. Morakniv recommends it for bread, rope, textiles and emergencies where fast cutting matters. The edge angle varies with the depth of the teeth.

## Granton indentations and profile grinds

Granton style indentations are oval recesses along the side of a blade. They are not really a grind. Instead, they reduce the vacuum that forms when slicing sticky foods like cheese or potatoes, so slices fall away. Morakniv also uses a profile ground edge on some hunting and fishing knives, developed for cutting through meat and hide with minimal friction, with angles of about 23 degrees on thin blades and about 27 degrees on thicker ones.

## Spines matter too

The grind is not the only shape that matters. The spine, the back of the blade, can be polished, ground and polished, or ground and left unpolished. Morakniv explains that a ground but unpolished 3.2 millimeter spine has sharp corners that make it excellent for striking a ferro rod, while polished spines with rounded corners are not suitable for fire starters. If you want a knife you can use to light a fire, check the spine as well as the edge.

## How to choose

- **Woodwork and camp chores:** a Scandi grind is easy to sharpen and bites into wood
- **Fine carving:** a Scandi zero gives the keenest edge but needs more care
- **Kitchen slicing:** a full flat grind gives long, clean cuts
- **Heavy chopping:** a convex grind keeps metal behind the edge
- **Light slicing:** a hollow grind is very sharp but less robust
- **Rope and bread:** a serrated edge saws through fibers

For pocket knives, the grind is only half the story. How the blade locks open matters just as much, which we cover in our guide to [pocket knife lock types](https://www.unknowndivide.com/pocket-knife-lock-types-explained/).

## A note on sharpening

Whatever grind you choose, finish every sharpening session by stropping to remove the burr. Morakniv suggests the back of a leather belt if you do not own a strop. Match your sharpening to the grind you have. With a Scandi, that means keeping the wide bevel flat on the stone so the angle stays where the maker set it.

## Where to buy

**Knives mentioned in this guide**  
[Morakniv Garberg (S) at Morakniv](https://morakniv.se/en/products/garberg-s?ref=unknowndivide.com)  
[Morakniv Companion (S) at Morakniv](https://morakniv.se/en/products/companion-s?ref=unknowndivide.com)  
[Morakniv Garberg, stainless steel](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1KL35O?tag=unknowndivi02-20&ref=unknowndivide.com)  
[Morakniv Garberg Survival Kit](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HZF9FGC?tag=unknowndivi02-20&ref=unknowndivide.com)

For more knives and tools, browse our [everyday carry hub](https://www.unknowndivide.com/everyday-carry/).