The asymmetrical zipper, the snap-down lapels, the belt at the waist. Schott NYC's Perfecto is the leather motorcycle jacket the company has been making since the late 1940s, and the Model 618 is the version Schott sells as its classic Perfecto, still made in the United States (USA).
Here is what the Perfecto 618 is, where it came from, how it is built and how to choose the right size.
The history
Schott's own account traces the three-pocket design of the Perfecto back to the late 1940s. At the time, the jacket was called simply the Perfecto, or the Beck model 999, which Schott manufactured. The small coin flap pocket started as a custom option in the early 1950s, and by 1955 it had become a standard feature of the jacket known as the Perfecto One Star.
According to Schott, the jacket caught mainstream attention after Marlon Brando wore his Perfecto in the film The Wild One. Schott says the One Star was banned from schools across the United States for a year in the mid-1950s, which only made it more desirable to young rebels. Orders surged, and Irving Schott and his son Mel expanded the workforce and the factory. By the mid-1960s, Schott says, the jacket had caught on with the rock and roll movement, and the company outgrew its factory on King Street in Perth Amboy, New Jersey. Several factories later, still in New Jersey, Schott continues the design as the Model 618.
How it is built
Schott lists the 618's features in detail:
- Leather. United States-sourced, chrome-tanned, drum-dyed, hand-cut heavyweight steerhide of 3 to 3.5 ounces, with a medium to firm hand and a matte, water-resistant finish.
- Cut. A rider-inspired 25-inch length and a large back panel, which Schott calls a signature of Perfecto quality.
- Zipper. The asymmetrical main zipper adds warmth and protection.
- Details. Snap-down lapels, collar and shoulder epaulets, custom embossed SCHOTT snap faces, zippered sleeve cuffs and an attached belt with a nickel-plated square buckle.
- Pockets. Three outside zippered pockets, the small coin flap pocket and a lower inside map pocket.
- Movement. Bi-swing back panels and grommet-vented underarm gussets, which Schott calls footballs, let the close-fitting jacket move with you.
- Lining. A sewn-in 5.5-ounce quilted nylon and polyester insulated lining.
Schott says highly skilled workers hand-cut each panel from patterns that date back to the early Perfecto jackets, in the same tradition used in the 1950s, and that the 618 is still made in the USA.
About the steerhide
Schott describes steerhide as a robust, finished top-grain cowhide that is plump, full bodied and rich to the touch. Its sealed finish adds a layer of protection against water, which makes it practical for everyday wear, though Schott advises keeping any leather away from prolonged wetness. The hide is vacuum dried rather than toggle dried, so the fibers are not stretched and softened. That is why it starts out stiff. Schott says the raw material is sourced in the United States and tanned in Mexico.
618 vs 613 One Star
Schott calls the 618 a close cousin of its popular Model 613 One Star, with a few subtle differences. The 618 has Schott logo snaps and no stars on the epaulets. The 613 carries the classic single star on its epaulets, a vintage Perfecto bull label, an attached half belt and bi-swing back panels without the underarm footballs. Choose the 613 if you want the most historically styled version. Choose the 618 if you want the cleaner look and the extra underarm movement.
If you prefer a different hide, Schott also makes the 618HH in horsehide. Schott says horsehide is the traditional leather it used for many of its earliest jackets. It starts shiny and stiff and molds to your shape with time.
Breaking it in
Schott is blunt about this: right out of the box, the 618 has a stiffer feel and fit, and the company rates the steerhide as very stiff. It is chrome tanned and processed to last many years without treatments or conditioners. Schott says that making the jacket your own takes commitment. Wear it often and it will conform to your body, eventually breaking in to a butter-soft feel.
Sizing
Schott designed the 618 to fit tighter than most jackets, for a bold, streamlined look. It is offered in sizes 32 to 54. Schott says ordering by your chest size gives the snug, T-shirt-only look of the 1950s, while many customers prefer to size up for room to layer. Check Schott's sizing diagrams and measurements before you order. For reference, Schott's model is 6 feet 1 inch tall with a 37-inch chest and wears a size 38.
How to wear it
The Perfecto works best with simple pieces underneath. A plain T-shirt and a pair of rigid jeans from our Levi's 501 guide or our Japanese denim brands explainer is the classic combination. On your feet, try the boots from our Red Wing Iron Ranger guide or our Dr. Martens 1460 guide.
Where to buy
The Perfecto 618 is sold through the Schott NYC store and Schott's retail partners. Because Schott makes many Perfecto variations, check the model number before you buy.
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