The Levi's 501 is the original blue jean. It is the pair that every other pair of jeans is measured against, and it has been in production in some form since the 1890s. Straight leg, button fly, red tab, arcuate stitching on the back pockets: the details are so familiar that it is easy to forget each one has a reason behind it.
This guide explains where the 501 came from, how to read its details, how it fits and how to buy the right pair. The history comes from Levi Strauss & Co.'s own timeline, which is unusually candid about what the company does and does not know.
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The history
Levi Strauss arrived in San Francisco in 1853 and opened a wholesale dry goods business. In 1872, a Reno, Nevada, tailor named Jacob Davis wrote to him about a process he had invented: riveting the pocket corners of work pants so they would not tear. The two men took out a patent together, and on May 20, 1873, they were granted U.S. patent number 139,121. The company calls this the invention of the blue jean.
The first pants were called "waist overalls," made from 9-ounce XX blue denim. Around 1890, after the rivet patent entered the public domain, the company began assigning lot numbers to its products, and 501 was given to the copper-riveted waist overalls. Levi's says it does not know why that number was chosen. Records were destroyed in the 1906 San Francisco earthquake and fire, which is why so many origins remain unknown. You can read the full history of the 501 on the company's site.
How the details arrived
The 501's famous features were added over time, mostly in response to what customers wanted. The Two Horse leather patch first appeared in 1886, showing two horses failing to pull apart a pair of jeans. Back pockets went from one to two around 1901, belt loops were added in 1922, and in 1936 the red Tab was stitched on the right back pocket so shoppers could tell Levi's from the many competitors using the same stitching. In 1943, the arcuate stitching design was registered as a trademark.
The company is also clear about what it does not know. Stories that the arcuate stitching represents a bird's wingspread are myths, it says. During World War II, wartime rules for saving raw materials meant the crotch rivet, watch-pocket rivets and the back cinch were removed, and the arcuate stitch was actually painted on. The zippered 501Z came out in 1954 for East Coast buyers unfamiliar with the button fly, and in 1960 the company's advertising switched from "overalls" to "jeans" after teenagers began calling them that. Pre-shrunk jeans came around 1961, and in 1964 the jeans entered the Smithsonian's permanent collections.
Anatomy of a 501
- Button fly. The 501's button fly predates the zipper and remains its signature detail. The buttons are slower to fasten than a zipper, but they are sturdy and easy to repair.
- Arcuate stitching. The double curve on the back pockets was registered as a trademark in 1943, and the company says the stitching was in use long before that.
- Red Tab. A small red flag on the right back pocket, in use since 1936.
- Two Horse patch. The leather-like label on the waistband, which has been on the jeans since 1886.
- Rivets. Copper rivets reinforce stress points, the feature that started the whole company's jeans story.
Fit and sizing
The 501 Original is a straight-leg jean that sits at the natural waist, with a roomy seat and thigh and a leg that stays straight from the knee down. It is a relaxed, classic fit that looks right with boots, work shoes or sneakers. If you want it tighter or more modern, Levi's makes other 501 variations, but the Original is the template.
For a real heritage experience, look for Shrink-to-Fit, which is unsanforized denim, meaning it has not been pre-shrunk. It will shrink when you first wash it, so buy a size or so up, soak or wash it, and let it dry on you if you want a custom fit. Most pairs sold today are pre-washed or pre-shrunk for convenience.
Which to buy
For men, the Levi's Men's 501 Original Fit Jeans is the standard pair, available in a wide range of washes and sizes. For women, the Levi's Women's 501 Original Fit Jeans keeps the same button fly and straight leg, with sizing made for a different cut. Start with a dark wash if you want a clean, versatile pair, or a medium wash for a worn-in look. Check the size chart and read the care label, since sizing varies by wash and finish.
How to wear them
The 501 is easy because it is basic. Pair it with a white tee, a heavy sweatshirt or a flannel shirt. Boots are the natural partner, as in our heritage boots guide, and so are classic sneakers such as the New Balance 990. Roll the hem once or twice if you want to show off your shoes. Wash them as little as you reasonably can, cold, inside out and hung to dry, to preserve the color and shape.
If the 501 gets you hooked on denim, our raw denim beginner's guide is the next step, and our Carhartt vs. Carhartt WIP explainer covers another workwear brand that became a style staple. Heavy boots like the Dr. Martens 1460 work well with a straight leg too.
More in our sneakers and style hub.
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