Few sneakers have crossed as many worlds as the New Balance 990. It started as a serious running shoe, became the unofficial uniform of dads, tech founders and anyone who stands all day, and then turned into one of the most coveted shoes in fashion. Through all of it, the formula has barely changed: premium suede and mesh, plenty of cushioning, a big "N" on the side and, most of the time, a lot of grey.
There are now six generations of the 990, plus a whole family of related numbers, which makes buying one more confusing than it should be. Here is how the line started, what changed with each version and which one to buy.
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Where the 990 came from
New Balance has been an independent company since 1906, starting in Boston as a maker of arch supports before moving into running shoes. The first 990 arrived in 1982, and according to the brand, it was the first running shoe to retail for $100, a huge price at the time. New Balance has described it as being created to be the single best running shoe on the market. It was aimed squarely at serious runners, with no concessions to fashion at all, which is exactly why it became a classic.
The shoe's other selling point was where it was made. The 990 has always been part of New Balance's Made in USA collection, built in the company's factories in New England. New Balance is careful about the claim: it says its Made in USA shoes contain a domestic value of 70% or more, and that the collection is a limited portion of its US sales.
The six generations
After the original 990, New Balance moved on to a run of related models, the 995, 996, 997, 998 and 999, before bringing the 990 name back with a version number. The timeline goes like this:
- 990 (1982): the original, with its suede and mesh upper and chunky, stable sole. It set the template for everything that followed.
- 990v2 (1998): the name returned with a sleeker, more late-1990s look and more substantial overlays.
- 990v3 (2012): a chunkier, more cushioned shoe that became a favorite of both runners and everyday wearers.
- 990v4 (2016): one of the most popular versions ever, with a bolder outline and big, layered overlays. It is the one many people picture when they think of a "dad shoe."
- 990v5 (2019): a refinement of the v4, slightly cleaner and more streamlined, with updated cushioning.
- 990v6 (2022): the biggest redesign in years, described below.
What changed with the 990v6
New Balance launched the 990v6 in November 2022, and called it one of the most dramatic changes from one generation of the shoe to the next. The design drops the traditional midfoot saddle, letting the pigskin and synthetic overlays flow from heel to toe across the mesh upper. The bigger change is inside: the v6 adds New Balance's FuelCell foam to the midsole, so it feels noticeably springier and more modern than earlier versions. To launch it, the brand revived its old "Runners Aren't Normal" campaign with a new cast that included the rapper Action Bronson and track athletes Sydney McLaughlin and Trayvon Bromell.
The Teddy Santis effect
Part of the reason the 990 is everywhere again is Teddy Santis, the founder of the New York label Aimé Leon Dore. In 2021, New Balance named him creative director of its Made in USA line, and his first collection in 2022 brought back older versions of the 990 in new seasonal colors alongside matching apparel. Since then, past generations have kept returning in fresh colorways, which is why you can now find a new 990v3 or 990v4 on shelves alongside the current model. If you like your sneakers with the same muted, considered palette as a good pair of raw denim, this is where the 990 shines.
Which 990 should you buy?
For most people, the answer is the current shoe. The New Balance 990v6 sneaker has the most modern cushioning, the cleanest design and a choice of widths, which matters because New Balance has long made its running shoes for different foot shapes. It is the version to buy if you plan to walk in it all day.
If you want the classic look, go for whichever reissue matches your style. The v3 is the most retro, the v4 is the boldest and the v2 sits somewhere in between. Look for seasonal colorways of the New Balance Made in USA 990v6 as well, since the collection rotates through colors throughout the year. Whichever you pick, grey is always the safest first choice: it is the 990's signature color for a reason.
Sizing and care
The 990 is built on a roomy, supportive last, so most people find it fits true to size, and the wider options make it one of the better choices for anyone with broad feet. If you are between sizes or plan to wear thick socks, try both. Because the upper is mostly suede and mesh, treat it like any good suede shoe: brush off dirt once it is dry, use a suede eraser on marks, and spray it with a protector before its first wet day. Rotate it with another pair when you can, and a 990 will look good and stay comfortable for years.
It is also worth knowing the rest of the family. New Balance has released several other numbers in the same premium, Made in USA spirit, most famously the 992 and 993, which share the 990's mix of suede, mesh and serious cushioning. If you already own a 990 and want something slightly different, they are the natural next step.
How to wear it
The 990 works because it is unpretentious. Pair it with straight-leg jeans or chinos and a simple sweatshirt, and it looks right at home in the city or on the weekend. In cooler months, it is a lighter alternative to heritage boots, and it sits comfortably alongside other performance-turned-lifestyle shoes like Nike's ACG Zegama Hike. If you are buying for someone else, our list of gifts for sneakerheads has more ideas.
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