Vans Old Skool Black and White: The Skate Shoe Worth Buying

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Few shoes have crossed as many scenes as the Vans Old Skool. Skaters adopted it first, then punk and hardcore kids, then art students, then pretty much everyone else. The black and white pair is the version most people picture: black suede and canvas, a white stripe, white sidewalls and a waffle sole. It is simple, cheap to replace and somehow always looks right.

Vans Old Skool history

Vans introduced the shoe in 1977 as Style 36. It was the first Vans shoe to carry the side stripe, a curving line that founder Paul Van Doren reportedly started as a doodle. The company first called it the jazz stripe, and today it is known as the Sidestripe. Style 36 also added leather panels at the toe and heel to make the shoe tougher for skateboarding, a practical change that became part of the look.

The name Old Skool came later, as the design moved from skate parks into wider streetwear. It has stayed in the line ever since, with countless colours and collaborations, but the black and white Old Skool remains the reference.

How the Old Skool is built

The upper mixes canvas with suede overlays, which keeps the shoe light while adding wear resistance where it matters. It is a vulcanized shoe, meaning the rubber sole is bonded to the upper with heat, which gives that flexible, close to the ground feel skaters like for board control. The signature waffle outsole grips well on grip tape and pavement. A padded collar adds a bit of comfort and support around the ankle.

That build has trade offs. Vulcanized shoes are flexible but not cushioned like running sneakers, so long days on hard floors can feel it. Many people swap in a cushioned insole to fix that.

Old Skool sizing and fit

The Old Skool generally fits true to size with a slightly narrow toe box. If you have wide feet, consider going up half a size. The suede and canvas soften quickly, so a snug fit at first usually becomes comfortable within a week. The shoes are sold in unisex sizing, so check the conversion if you normally buy women's sizes.

How to wear the black and white Old Skool

• Straight leg jeans or work pants. The classic pairing, with a small cuff or a clean break at the ankle.
• Shorts and plain tees. The shoe looks best with simple pieces that let the stripe stand out.
• Dark layers. Black on black outfits pick up the white stripe and sidewall for contrast.

They also make a good studio and gig shoe. The thin sole gives you feel on pedals and footswitches, which is why many guitarists wear them on stage. A long night of loud music, or a slow listen to False Awakening, is better on comfortable feet.

Old Skool vs Sk8-Hi and Authentic

Vans has a few icons that often get confused. The Authentic is the original 1966 deck shoe, a plain canvas low top with no stripe. The Era added a padded collar for skaters. The Old Skool brought the Sidestripe and suede panels. The Sk8-Hi, launched a year later, is essentially the high top version of the Old Skool, with extra ankle coverage. If you want the classic look with more support, the Sk8-Hi is the answer. If you want something lighter and plainer, the Authentic is the minimalist choice. For most people, the Old Skool hits the sweet spot between the two.

How to clean and care for them

Brush dry dirt off the suede first, then spot clean with a damp cloth and a little mild soap. Avoid the washing machine, which can warp the vulcanized sole and fade suede. Clean the white sidewalls with a soft brush and diluted cleaner. Let them air dry away from heat. Rotating between two pairs extends their life, and because the black and white Old Skool rarely changes, replacements always match.

Like a well worn Moleskine notebook, they look better with a little wear. That lived in quality is part of the charm, the same reason older records such as Artificial still feel personal.

Where to buy

Colourways, Checkerboard variants and the rest of the classic line are collected on the official Vans site.

For more sneakers and wardrobe staples, browse the sneakers and style hub.