Pull a hooded jacket over your head instead of zipping it up the front and you are wearing a design that has been refined over generations in one of the harshest climates on Earth. The anorak began in the Arctic, made by hand from animal hides and fur, and it has since become a staple of outdoor clothing and everyday style. This guide traces where the anorak came from, how it was built and what a modern version still offers. Much of the history here draws on Filson's journal history of the anorak.
Arctic origins
The anorak can be traced back generations among the peoples of the Arctic. Filson's history names the Iglulik, who lived on the Melville Peninsula and northwestern Baffin Island, the Inuit spread across the central Arctic to Greenland, and the Inupiat of Alaska and western Canada. The garment was also widely known by a Russian term, the parka.
In its traditional form, the anorak was a one piece jacket pulled over the head, generally with a large hood. That basic idea, a single shell with no front opening and a hood built in, is still what separates an anorak from most other jackets.
Materials and the seasons
Traditional anoraks were made from animal fur, skin, bone and ivory, and the style depended on whether the wearer was male or female and on the season. Caribou hide was used for winter anoraks. Summer versions were made from sealskin, with a ruff or collar of fur inside the hood and on the sleeve cuffs. That fur could be wolverine, wolf or dog.
Waterproofing was handled with remarkable ingenuity. Strips of seal or walrus intestine were dried and whitened in the cold, then applied at the wrists and neck openings to keep water out. Skins of waterfowl such as cormorants and puffins were highly valued and used for parkas worn only by men.
Design details
Around the time of the first recorded European contact in the 15th century, the men's anorak was a knee length garment with a flap at the center front and back, the front flap being the shorter. Women's anoraks were cut above the knee. Another common feature was what were called walrus tusks, two pieces of caribou fur placed on either side of the neck of the hood to protect the head against ice formed by the wearer's breath.
Some anoraks made for women had a larger hood, called an amaut, that allowed an infant to be carried inside with the help of an interior harness. Decoration on both men's and women's anoraks could include insets of colored leather at the seams of the arms and waist hem, or bands of white skin or fur. While the hood was usually part of the garment, in some regions it was left off entirely. The Iglulik men's inner parka of caribou was one example, either hoodless or with a more pronounced peak.
A garment with many names
The vocabulary around the anorak reflects the variety of local dialects in the Inuit language. Filson's history lists several terms:
- Atigi: a single woman's coat, with the fur turned to the inside.
- Akuitoq: a man's parka slit down the front.
- Atigainaq: a parka worn by a teenage girl.
- Qulittuq: a closed hooded jacket with the fur to the outside.
Those distinctions show how central the garment was to daily life. Different people, ages and conditions called for different versions.
Nothing wasted
Arctic life called for two types of anoraks and other clothing for two seasons, as both inner and outer layers, so new clothes had to be made every year. A fortunate hunter could provide enough material from seals, walruses, caribou and polar bears to outfit himself and his family. Old clothing was never wasted. Worn anoraks found new use as work clothes, bedding and repair material as the need arose.
How it changed
By the 18th century, the anorak had been shortened to hip length and given a front closure, changes influenced by European fashion of the time. Fur remained widespread in Arctic anoraks until the middle of the 20th century, and the 20th century saw a broader decline in fur clothing in favor of European styles.
The tradition has not disappeared. According to Filson's history, people in Greenland still wear traditional sealskin anoraks, while white cotton anoraks have become a preference in summer, and the women's anorak is now often worn without a hood. The basic demands of Arctic clothing remain the same: an anorak must be durable, insulate against cold, keep water out and help control humidity and temperature for the wearer.
The modern anorak
Modern anoraks keep the pullover body and hood while using new materials. Filson's own Mackinaw Wool Anorak is a good example. The company says its design traces back to ancient Greenland. It is made from 100 percent Mackinaw wool, which Filson says insulates even when wet, turns away wind and stays highly breathable. A quarter length front zipper adds ventilation, and a drawcord adjustable hood and hem seal in warmth. If you want to know more about that fabric, see our Mackinaw wool explainer.
Other anoraks use waxed cotton, covered in our waxed canvas guide, or waterproof membranes, which we cover in our Gore-Tex explainer.
How to choose and wear one
Since an anorak goes on over the head, think about whether you will be layering up and down often during the day. Check how far the front zipper opens, whether the hood and hem adjust and how much room there is underneath for a sweater. A wool anorak works well as an outer layer on cold, dry days and as a warm mid layer under a shell in the rain. For a classic look, wear it with heavy work pants and boots, much like a Mackinaw Cruiser.
Where to buy
Mackinaw Wool Anorak at Filson
Read Filson's history of the anorak
For more heritage clothing, browse our denim and workwear hub.
