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Some clothes look designed. The Stan Ray OG Loose Fatigue looks issued, and that is the point. It is a plain olive cotton pant with two big patch pockets on the front, a relaxed straight leg and almost no decoration. It has been made at the same Texas factory for about half a century, and it has drifted from surplus bins to skate parks to the shelves of Tokyo shops without changing much along the way.
The Army pant behind it
Stan Ray says the OG Loose Fatigue is inspired by the classic military issue 107 fatigue pants worn by the US Army from 1952 until 1989. OG-107 refers to the olive green shade of cotton sateen the Army used for its utility uniforms, and the pants made in it were simple by design. They had to be cheap to produce in huge numbers, easy to repair and tough enough for daily wear in the field.
The most recognizable detail is the pair of large rectangular patch pockets on the front, often called baker pockets. Instead of the slanted side pockets found on chinos and jeans, you get two flat pockets sewn onto the face of the pant. They are roomy, easy to reach and very hard to tear off.
A small Texas company that stayed put
According to Stan Ray, the company was founded in 1972 by Earl Beard in Crockett, Texas, a small town between Houston and Dallas. After layoffs at the machine company where he worked, Earl bought a few sewing machines and started Earl's Apparel. He built his business on two principles: durability and making things in the USA, because he wanted control over quality.
His painter pants and fatigue trousers found a following among tradespeople across Texas. The fatigues also ended up in surplus stores and, from there, in the hands of Japanese vintage collectors. Stan Ray says demand from Japan, including direct orders from Tokyo shops such as Beams, helped keep the factory running while other American workwear makers moved production overseas. Today the company is still run by Earl's family, and the core range of painter pants, fatigues and jackets is still made in Texas.
If you already own the brand's best known pant, our post on the Stan Ray OG Painter Pant covers the carpenter side of the catalog.
Details and construction
Stan Ray lists these details for the OG Loose Fatigue in Olive Sateen:
- 100 percent cotton sateen at 8.5 ounces
- Loose fit with a straight leg and an 18 inch leg opening
- Zip fly
- Two front patch pockets
- Two button down back pockets
- Chain stitch construction with bar tacked stress points
- Made in the USA
Sateen is a weave that puts more yarn on the surface, which gives the fabric a slight sheen and a smooth hand. It is denser and softer than a basic twill of the same weight, and it fades in a gentle, even way. Chain stitching, the looped stitch used on many vintage work garments, is strong and flexible, and it gives the seams a slightly rippled look after a few washes.
How it fits
Stan Ray calls the fit nice and relaxed, and the 18 inch leg opening is wide by modern standards. The pant sits roomy through the seat and thigh and falls straight to the hem, so it stacks a little over shoes. If you want the same fabric and pockets in a trimmer shape, Stan Ray also makes the Slim Fatigue. The brand says it is cut slimmer through the upper thigh and seat, with a slight taper to the knee and then straight from the knee down, and it has a 15.5 inch leg opening.
- OG Loose Fatigue: the original shape, best with chunky shoes, boots and loose tops
- Slim Fatigue: a cleaner line that works with low sneakers and fitted knitwear
How to wear it
Stan Ray points out that the stripped back design works casually with a flannel shirt and deck shoes or dressed up with something sharper. Olive is close to a neutral, so it pairs well with navy, grey, cream, white and brown. A few easy combinations:
- A white tee, a chore coat and canvas sneakers
- A grey sweatshirt, wool socks and leather boots
- A denim jacket in a contrasting wash and a striped shirt
The fatigue also makes a good partner to other workwear staples. If you are building a rotation, compare it with the Dickies 874 for a flat front work pant, or with a pair of Levi's 501 for denim.
Care
Stan Ray suggests machine washing its fatigues at 30 degrees. Cool water keeps shrinkage and fading in check, and hanging the pants to dry helps the sateen keep its body. Like most cotton workwear, they soften noticeably over the first few months.
Who it is for
Buy the OG Loose Fatigue if you like military surplus style but want new, consistent sizing, if you prefer a relaxed straight leg, or if you value clothes made by a small company in the same place for decades. Skip it if you want stretch or a slim, tapered modern cut, in which case the Slim Fatigue is the better place to start.
Where to buy
For more heritage clothing, browse our denim and workwear hub.
