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Kangol Wool 504: The Original Flat Cap Explained

First introduced in 1954 and named after the block it is shaped on, the Kangol Wool 504 is a seamless wool cap that still looks sharp today. Here is how it is made, how to size it and who it suits.

By unknowndivide staff 3 min read
Kangol Wool 504 cap in warm taupe wool
Kangol Wool 504. Image: Kangol

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Some hats are trends. The Kangol Wool 504 is a fixture. It is a short brimmed, rounded wool cap with a small kangaroo on the back, and it has looked right on heads for generations. If you have been thinking about adding a cap that is smarter than a baseball hat but less formal than a fedora, this is the obvious place to start.

Who makes it

Kangol is the headwear brand behind the kangaroo logo. The company calls the Wool 504 its iconic, original cap. It was first introduced in 1954, and it gets its name from the number of the block, the shaping form, that it is made on. That small detail tells you something: the 504 is defined by its shape, and that shape has stayed the same for decades.

What the Wool 504 is

The Wool 504 is a seamless wool cap with a classic fit. It has a flat crown, a short peak at the front and no lining inside. Kangol describes it as a bestseller that works worn forwards or backwards, and the embroidered kangaroo logo sits at the center back.

  • Style number: 0258BC
  • Shape: 504
  • Material: 100 percent wool
  • Headband: 100 percent nylon
  • Brim: 1 3/4 inch peak
  • Crown: flat
  • Lining: unlined
  • Closure: fitted, no adjuster
  • Sizes: extra small to double extra large
  • Logo: embroidered kangaroo at center back

Why it is cool

The seamless build is the key. Kangol makes the 504 as a seamless wool cap, so the crown is smooth and clean with no seams running over the top. That is what gives it the soft, rounded silhouette that is so easy to recognize from across a room.

It is wonderfully versatile. Worn forwards, it reads like a classic driving cap and works with a wool overcoat, a chore coat or a tweed jacket. Flipped backwards, the short peak tucks away and the kangaroo faces forward, giving it a more relaxed, streetwise feel. Few hats can switch moods that easily.

It is also simple. No buckle, no strap, no logo on the front. The small embroidered kangaroo is the only branding, and it sits quietly at the back. That restraint is a big part of why the cap never looks dated.

Wool makes it a natural choice for autumn and winter. It adds warmth on cold mornings without the bulk of a beanie.

How to size it

Because the 504 is fitted, sizing matters. Kangol's size guide maps each size to a head measurement. Measure around your head just above the ears and across the forehead with a soft tape, then match it to the chart.

  • Small: 54 to 55 centimeters
  • Medium: 56 to 57 centimeters
  • Large: 58 to 59 centimeters
  • Extra large: 60 to 61 centimeters
  • Double extra large: 62 to 63 centimeters

If you fall between sizes, think about how you like to wear it. A snug fit stays put on windy days, while a slightly looser fit sits more relaxed.

How to style it

The Wool 504 works best when the rest of the outfit is simple. Try it with a navy peacoat or a wool overcoat in winter, a chore coat and jeans in autumn, or a denim jacket and boots on cooler spring days. Neutral colors like black, grey, navy and camel are the easiest to wear, while brighter shades make the cap the focal point of the outfit.

To keep it looking good, store it on a shelf rather than crushed in a bag, and brush off lint and dust now and then. Wool rewards a little care.

Who should buy it

Buy the Wool 504 if you want one good cap that works with heritage clothing, workwear and smarter coats alike. It suits anyone building a wardrobe around classic pieces, and it is an easy gift if you know the person's head size.

Look elsewhere if you need sun protection. The short peak will not shade your eyes like a baseball cap, and the wool body is too warm for hot summer days.

Building a classic wardrobe? Read our Clarks Wallabee explainer, our Levi's 501 explainer, our take on the Dr. Martens 1460 and our Engineered Garments explainer. Find more in our sneakers and style hub.