Ask ten people which Barbour to buy and you will get ten answers, mostly from people who own one. The trouble is that the four jackets everyone argues about look almost the same in a photo. All four are 6oz waxed cotton. All four have the corduroy collar, the bellows pockets and the two-way ring-pull zip. The differences are in length, cut and a few details that only matter once you know how you will wear the thing. This guide sorts the Bedale, Beaufort, Ashby and Border using Barbour's own product notes, then covers fit, liners and the wax care that keeps any of them going for decades.
If you want the short version on the most popular of the four first, our earlier look at the Barbour Bedale is a good starting point.
The quick answer
- Bedale: short, relaxed, the all-rounder. Pick it if you drive, cycle or wear it mostly over knitwear and jeans.
- Beaufort: a little longer, with the big rear game pocket. Pick it if you want more cover and somewhere to stash a map, gloves or a paperback.
- Ashby: the trimmer, matte modern take. Pick it if the classics feel too boxy on you.
- Border: the long one with longer sleeves. Pick it if you are tall or want it over a suit jacket.
Side by side
| Jacket | Designed | Length and fit | Signature detail | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bedale | 1980 | Short, relaxed, rear vents | Nylon drip strip, born for riding | Everyday wear, driving, cycling |
| Beaufort | 1983 | Short, relaxed, back length 84cm listed | Full-width lined rear game pocket | Walks, country weekends, carrying more |
| Ashby | Modern line | Slightly more tailored than the Bedale | Matte Sylkoil wax, tartan-trimmed pockets | A cleaner city look |
| Border | Early 1980s | Longer, generous fit, longer sleeves, back length 96.5 to 99cm listed | Two internal poacher's pockets | Tall wearers, over tailoring, foul weather |
All four are listed by Barbour in 6oz waxed cotton, with care instructions that say do not wash and sponge clean only.
Bedale: the one most people mean
Barbour says Dame Margaret Barbour designed the Bedale in 1980 with horse riding in mind. That explains everything about it. It is short so it does not bunch in a saddle, it has rear vents, and it carries a nylon inner drip strip to stop damp creeping up from below. The classic kit is all there: brass two-way ring-pull zip, studded Stormfly front, two bellows pockets, two moleskin-lined handwarmer pockets and a corduroy collar with studs for a hidden throat flap.
The short length is the reason it works in town. It sits at the hip, clears a car seat and never fights with a bag strap. Barbour also notes it is fully interactive with zip-in thermal liners and hoods, which is how one jacket covers most of the year. If you only ever own one Barbour, this is usually the right call.
Beaufort: the one with the pocket
The Beaufort arrived in 1983, also designed by Dame Margaret Barbour, and Barbour says it was inspired by French shooting jackets. Its calling card is the full-width rear pocket lined with wipe-clean nylon. That back pocket is the whole argument for choosing it over a Bedale. It swallows things a front pocket cannot, and it keeps your front pockets flat.
The Beaufort adds Velcro wind cuffs and is cut to a relaxed fit, with Barbour listing an 84cm back length. A small piece of trivia from the product page: older Beauforts carry the Dress Gordon tartan, while the modern one is lined with the Classic Barbour tartan, based on the tartan sett from the family's home county of Ayrshire. If you are shopping secondhand, that lining tells you roughly how old the jacket is.
Ashby: the modern cut
The Ashby is Barbour reworking its Engineered Bedale in a heavier wax finish. It uses 6oz Sylkoil waxed cotton with a matte finish and what Barbour calls a lived-in feel, so it looks less shiny than a fresh classic. It is slightly more tailored than the Bedale while still leaving room for winter layers.
You still get the Stormfly front with stud fastenings, a sit-down cord collar with throat strap, two bellows pockets and angled handwarmer pockets. The Original Classic Tartan trims the lining and inside pockets, and the front zip takes Barbour's optional zip-in liners. It is the pick for anyone who likes the idea of a Barbour but finds the 1980s cuts too square.
Border: the long one
The Border is the longest of the four, with a generous fit and lengthened sleeves. Barbour pitches it as the all-weather jacket for a taller man or for wearing over a suit. It dates to the early 1980s and is named for the land border between Scotland and England that founder John Barbour crossed in 1870 on his way to North East England, where the company still lives.
Inside are two poacher's pockets with detachable pocket bags, and the cuffs are Velcro storm cuffs. Barbour lists a back length of 96.5 to 99cm. That extra length covers the top of your thighs, which is the difference between dry trousers and wet ones on a long walk in sideways rain.
Sizing and fit
Three practical rules, all based on how Barbour describes these cuts.
- Decide on liners first. The Bedale, Beaufort, Border and Ashby are all built to take zip-in liners. If you plan to add one for winter, leave room for it rather than buying the snuggest size.
- The relaxed cuts are meant to be relaxed. Barbour describes the Bedale and Beaufort as relaxed fits for layering. Going a size smaller works over a T-shirt but leaves no room for a sweater and a liner.
- Tall or long-armed, start with the Border. Its longer sleeves are the fix that sizing up a Bedale cannot give you.
Barbour's own size charts sit on each product page, so measure a jacket you already like and compare.
Wax care and re-waxing
Every one of these jackets says the same thing on the label: do not wash, sponge clean only. Hot water and detergent strip the wax, so brush off dried mud and wipe with a cold damp sponge instead. Hang it to dry away from direct heat.
Barbour recommends re-waxing roughly once a year depending on wear. You can do it at home with a tin of wax, a sponge and a warm spot, and we walk through it step by step in our guide to re-waxing a waxed jacket. Barbour also runs its own repair and re-wax service for Barbour waxed cotton garments, which handles re-waxing, repairs and alterations. Barbour notes a fresh re-wax can make a jacket look darker with more sheen at first, and that it settles back with wear.
Its care kits cover the wax and tools. If you want to understand why the fabric behaves the way it does, our explainer on waxed canvas and tin cloth covers the basics.
Which one to buy
If you are torn, start with the Bedale. It is the most versatile, it was designed for the most demanding use, and it looks right with almost anything. Choose the Beaufort if you will actually use that rear pocket. Choose the Ashby if fit matters more than tradition. Choose the Border if you are tall, wear tailoring or walk in serious weather. Any of the four, waxed once a year, will outlast most of the rest of your wardrobe. Browse the full line on Barbour's waxed jackets page.
