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The Barbour Bedale Wax Jacket: Why a 1980 Riding Coat Is Still Worth Buying

Six-ounce waxed cotton, a corduroy collar and a drip strip for the saddle. The story of the Barbour Bedale, the 1980 riding jacket still made by hand in South Shields, plus which version to buy and how to care for it.

By unknowndivide staff 3 min read
Two people wearing sage and olive Barbour Bedale waxed jackets with corduroy collars standing beside a brown horse outside a stone stable
Barbour Bedale jackets from the Icons collection. Image: Barbour

There are jackets, and then there are jackets that turn up in every decade and every kind of wardrobe. The Barbour Bedale is one of the second kind. It is a short, boxy waxed cotton jacket with a corduroy collar and big bellows pockets, designed in 1980 for riding horses in the English countryside, and it now shows up just as often in cities as on farms.

Here is what the Bedale is, where it came from, which version to buy and how to care for it.

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What it is

The Bedale Waxed Jacket is made from mediumweight six-ounce waxed cotton. It has a brass two-way ring-pull zip with a studded storm flap over the front, two large bellows pockets, two moleskin-lined handwarmer pockets and a corduroy collar with studs for a hidden throat flap. Inside, a nylon drip strip runs around the hem.

The shape is what makes it a Bedale. It is shorter than a classic country coat, with a relaxed fit and vents at the back. Barbour also designs it to work with optional zip-in thermal liners and hoods, so a single jacket can cover most of the year.

Where it came from

Barbour's story starts in 1894, when Scotsman John Barbour set up in the market place of South Shields in the North East of England, supplying oilskins to sailors, fishermen and mariners. According to Barbour's own history, the business is still family owned and still based in South Shields more than 130 years later.

The Bedale came from Margaret Barbour, who joined the board after her husband John died suddenly and became chairman in 1973. In 1980 she designed the Bedale as a lightweight, thornproof short jacket for equestrian use. Barbour explains that every detail had a job. The shorter length and rear vents made it comfortable in the saddle, and the inner drip strip kept damp from the horse from seeping up into the jacket.

It became one of the company's signature pieces. Barbour's Icons collection lists it alongside the 1969 Durham, the 1980 Border and the 1981 Spey, and in 2010 Barbour added the Beadnell, a slimmer women's version of the Bedale named after a small fishing village in Northumberland. Barbour says the Bedale is still made by hand at its factory in Simonside, South Shields.

Which version to buy

  • Bedale. The standard version, with a relaxed fit and the classic details above. It comes in several colors, including Sage, Navy and Black.
  • Classic Bedale. Made in Barbour's six-ounce Sylkoil waxed cotton with a full cotton lining in the brand's Original Classic Tartan. Barbour calls it the heart of its Classic collection. It is the one to pick if you want the most traditional look.
  • Beadnell. The women's take, cut slimmer through the body.

On sizing, Barbour lists the Bedale in sizes 30 to 52 with a regular fit. Leave enough room for a sweater underneath, which also suits the boxy shape.

How to care for it

Do not put a waxed jacket in the washing machine. Barbour's care instructions say do not wash and sponge clean only. Over time the wax wears thin, especially along creases and edges, and the fabric starts to feel dry. That is the moment to re-wax it.

Barbour has offered re-waxing and repairs since its 1921 catalogue, and today it groups them under its Wax for Life services, which include re-waxing, repairs and the Re-Loved program for refurbished jackets. A Bedale that is looked after can easily outlast the person who bought it.

It looks right with the rest of a heritage wardrobe. Try it over a pair of Levi's 501s or jeans from one of the makers in our Japanese denim guide, with boots from our heritage boots guide and a Filson Original Briefcase on your shoulder.

Where to buy

Barbour sells the jacket through its own store, starting with the Bedale Waxed Jacket. You can also pick up the Barbour Classic Bedale Wax Jacket or the standard Barbour Bedale Wax Jacket. Check current pricing and available sizes before you order, since both vary by color.

New to heritage clothing? Our raw denim beginner's guide is a good next read. More in our sneakers and style hub.